Trippin' along with Lin & Maryke!: BLOG 18—LABRADOR--the Ferry Crossing, the Roads and the Sights!

We didn't think an optional side trip to Labrador would work out, so we had our fingers and toes crossed as we got closer! Our Rally Handbook had 2 free days in Port Aux Choix with a descriptive paragraph on the ferry to Labrador. We were camped 51 miles south of the Newfoundland port of St. Barbe where the ferry leaves and heads west for Labrador.

When the Caravan traveled down from St, Anthony on Port au Choix Wednesday 5/20 morning, we stopped in St, Barbe to ask about the schedule etc. We had looked at the website LabradorMarine.com but their schedule is transitioning from winter to spring and changes day by day, probably depending somewhat on reservations. The ferry had left when we arrived at the terminal and a hand written sign said no agents were on duty until 1-1/2 hours before the next departure, which was 2 hours away. An 800 phone number and the pay phone in the terminal solved the problem and got Lin to an agent who described the process. So we made reservations for the 10:30 AM ferry from St. Barbe, Newfoundland to Blanc Sablon, Quebec which is 5 KM south of the first town in Labrador, L'Anse au Clair. There was only one ferry back to St. Barbe on Saturday (unlike Sunday when there is a 10:30AM and 4:30 PM) so we reserved on the 10:30 Saturday, really giving us only about 8-9 hours to see Labrador.

Fishboat followed by lots of gulls (from the ferry)

We wanted more time to explore but the group is heading south for our next campground in Deer Lake Sunday and we'd miss some activities if we stayed 2 nights in Labrador. We had emailed the only campground in southern Labrador at the Northern Light Inn in L'Anse au Clair to be sure their campground was open and were happy to hear it was but the water was still frozen in the campground (not a problem for us) so the rate was only $15 a night! Exploring in southern Labrador meant taking the only paved road, Highway 510, 51 miles north where it continues as a gravel road for 194 miles up to Cartwright then a ferry takes over and moves you to Goose Bay in central Labrador. Heading south in Quebec, their road only goes about 48 miles and stops completely with all other travel along the coast for several hundred miles by ferry skipping along a route of 4-5 small ports! So road travel in Labrador is complicated!

We originally thought 3 couples would be going but turned out to be only us in our little RV and the Lee's traveling in their pickup and staying in a B&B. Also we were concerned about weather since Thursday was a terrible day of heavy rain, a thunderstorm and gale force winds that forced us to abandon our scheduled tours and stay in our RVs—remember we were camped right on a beach with no protection! The rig also got a lot of salt spray from breaking waves on the beach blowing right at us. But, luck was with us and the winds calmed overnight and the rain stopped--it's a go!

Friday 5/22 we got up early and the wind had moderated and sunshine! We drove off at 7:15AM to make the 51 miles trip north to St. Barbe to catch the Labrador Ferry. We arrived at 8:40AM and paid for our ticket ($29.60 each way for RV & driver plus 1 passenger.) We drove on board the ferry at 10AM and went up to the lounge as no one is allowed on the vehicle deck while the ferry is underway. The ferry was comfortable with a very busy snack bar and the ship had very little rolling on the transit across. We saw a few smaller icebergs from a distance on the way over.

The ferry landed at Blanc Sablon, Quebec at 12 noon and we drove off at 12:10 Newfoundland time. In Quebec, it's Eastern time or 1-1/2 hours earlier but Labrador stays on Newfoundland time! We looked around on the Quebec side, saw a young beaver, then drove to Northern Lights Inn to pay for our campsite ($15 + 13% Newfoundland Harmonized Sales Tax!) so we didn't lose it! Shouldn’t have worried about that! We were the only ones camped that night!

Labrador, like Newfoundland, had an unusually severe winter as did the northern U.S. and like a lot of Newfoundland so far, the roads in Labrador are in bad shape with lots of potholes and slow going in places.

We drove north and turned onto a good gravel road to L'Anse L'Amour and stopped at the archaic gravesite memorial on the side of the road. It's the grave of a child from 7500 years ago and now just a mound. It's the oldest known funeral monument in North America!

The beach down the road was very interesting with a very tall cliff just above where we heard a bird calling. We think it was a female rough legged hawk looking for prey as it flew over! Beautiful bird!

We continued down the road to Point Amour Lighthouse, built in 1857, a Provincial Historic Site with Bonnie, the interpreter on duty. We met the Lee's there, paid our entry fee and looked at the exhibits. The interpreter asked if we wanted to climb the 122 steps up the circular staircase and go up to see the light. Sure we did! So up we climbed and fortunately there was a landing at about every full revolution with a clever saying at each one to entertain you while you caught your breath! Finally at the top, we could see the large Fresnel lens with its light and a good view of the sea. Back down, we looked at the shipwreck exhibits of commercial vessels and 2 Royal Navy warships that went aground here. Also an interesting series of very old charts as far back as the 1500s!

Back on the highway north again, we went up several steep grades over 800' from sea level at the lighthouse.

When we had lunch in the rig somewhere off the road we saw a small animal running around, which we later decided was a young beaver.

At 5PM we came into Red Bay and as we expected, the Red Bay National Historic Site wasn't open for the season for another week or so and there was still some snow on their road. The park takes in many of the old fishing and whaling related structures. This was originally a large Basque whaling station from the 16^th Century! The town is very scenic with a large well protected bay.

As we were driving around, we found a group of inukshuk sculptures and later the remains of the shipwreck of SS Bernier with its rusty hull still more or less intact. We were really sorry we didn't have more time to spend in Red Bay as it's a fascinating place. In summer, they have re-enactors working, which would be very interesting to see.

Wreck of the SS Bernier

Poster of the archaeological excavations in Red Bay

We left Red Bay about 6:30PM and returned to the Northern Lights Inn to order a large Greco Pizza, which we had seen on our earlier visit. 20 minutes later, we headed across the street to the campground, plugged into the electric and had a delicious 5 topping pizza meal! It was very quiet that night and we slept very well and then got up early so we could take a quick drive as far south into Quebec as we could get before we had to return to the ferry dock.

We left camp at 7:55AM in a light rain and fog and drove about 15 miles before we had to turn back. Each village we passed was very tidy and well-kept and it was different seeing all the French signs here.

We couldn't walk up to the top---steps were under a deep load of snow!

We climbed up a couple of steep grades on the road and came to Brador River Falls, a high, wide and very fast moving waterfall coming down the mountain and off to the sea. The force of the water and the roar of the falls were very impressive! This river is part of a hydro project. On the way back, we had to drive down the grades we recently drove up and were amazed at the road sign warning of an 18% downgrade, probably the steepest we've ever driven! We really need to come back here and do more exploring!

We were back at the ferry landing at 9:15AM and watched the ferry come in at 9:20. We finally parked on the ferry at 10:10AM and we were the last ones on—a very full load on the vehicle deck! We arrived back in St. Barbe at 11:45 AM but these ferries have ramps on both bow and stern and turn around to unload so you can drive straight off and guess who was the last off the ferry?? Yep, us at 12:10 after all the trucks and autos finally departed!

When we were close to Plum Point, we saw our first red fox crossing the road so quickly that we have no photograph. We stopped for lunch at South Castor Harbour and heated up a bowl of Anderson's green pea soup which really hit the spot! Shortly after, we saw another male caribou near the road but up in the snow. (see pictures in Blog 17) Well, we made it back from Labrador, happy for the experience, but it would be great to have more time because there is a lot more to see and do! Next time!