Illinois—the River, the CAT and the Deere!

We arrived in Peoria, Illinois on July 24, 2014 and decided to stay for 3 nights in order to see the town and to catch up.  The Mill Creek Campground—a remarkably inexpensive Passport America park-- in East Peoria is located right on the banks of the wide Illinois River, a major tributary of the Mississippi River, which begins near Joliet, Illinois and 273 miles later, near Grafton, IL, south of St. Louis, the Illinois River joins the Mississippi River, only 20 miles upstream from where the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers join. 

Two river channels loop around the Mill Creek Campground areas closest to the Illinois River.  The ground was quite muddy after rain but we walked out to the river's edge.  We watched a huge tug and extremely long barge combination heading down to Peoria or beyond moving very slowly downriver at about 3-4 knots with the river current.  A short time later we watched a smaller tug pushing a construction barge with a large crane also heading downriver.  There were small footprints like raccoon prints in the mud but we never saw any animals or turtles.  We did see many thousands of minnows swimming in convoy and occasionally something under them taking a gulp of them, probably a bigger fish! 

One major reason to visit Peoria is the headquarters of Caterpillar Inc., the world's largest producer of earthmoving equipment, railway locomotives and a major manufacturer of electric power generators and engines used in petroleum markets and mining equipment. 

The Caterpillar Visitors Center is a large modern building located in the heart of downtown Peoria on the Riverfront at 110 SW Washington St. and is open Monday-Saturday10AM-5PM. We went on Saturday, July 26.  There is a $6-7 admission charge.  Your self-guided tour begins with an orientation film shown inside a two story tall, 400 ton CAT 797F massive mining truck converted into a 62 seat “rumble-seat” theatre—meaning the whole theatre vibrates as the massive machines move across the screen--pretty exciting in itself! 

After that experience, you walk through a hall of massive CAT yellow tractors, trucks, backhoes and other pieces of equipment.  There are 15 different themed areas to go through in this large exhibit hall.

A highlight for visiting kids, beyond the huge machines, is a group of simulators of different pieces of large construction equipment, allowing you to sit in the cab and operate the controls, like a real operator!  Lin was doing well in his bulldozer simulator until he hit a large tree--Whoops!

The Heritage Gallery shows some of the first Caterpillar machines from the 1920s-30s including one of the first bulldozers.  Another area shows production of various CAT construction machines but the highlight for us was a time lapse video of the construction of the giant 797F mining truck (like the truck that is the introductory theatre.)  This vehicle is so large, all the components must be shipped to the jobsite, usually a large mine, and the truck built on site—an amazing logistics and labor exercise!

The “CAT at Work around the World” Gallery is very interesting too.  Since its founding in 1925, Caterpillar equipment has worked on virtually every major project, not only in North America, but the entire world!  CAT products helped build San Francisco's cable car system, the Golden Gate and Bay Bridges, most major dams in the U.S. and beyond, the Alaska Highway in 1942 and much more. Today, CAT machines are widening the Panama Canal and worked on the construction of China's massive Three Gorges Dam.

In World War II, Caterpillar worked 7 days a week, doubled their workforce, added women working in the foundry and machine assembly lines and built 51,000 armored versions of track-type tractors painted Army olive drab and trained Army enlisted men to operate them!  CAT diesel engines and transmissions powered Sherman tanks plus they manufactured howitzer carriages, artillery shells, bomb fuses and much more.  Strangely, Caterpillar did not show their war production in the history display.

Today, Caterpillar has 118,501 employees around the world!  They manufacture, and sell globally, heavy equipment including a very wide range of construction and mining equipment, forestry machines, EMD railroad locomotives, industrial gas turbines, diesel and natural gas engines and all types of power generation.  CAT also has an important Financial Products division supporting their dealer network and customers. Another important division is Parts and Customer Service that keeps machines running worldwide!  69 % of CAT's sales and revenues come from outside the U.S., with 31% in the U.S!

You can even design your own CAT!!

You can take home some CAT too with the CAT Merchandise Center onsite to entice you with CAT toy bulldozers and other machines, T-shirts, boots and much more!  Caterpillar is a very impressive company and this Visitor Center gives you a complete look at the workings of the whole company!

After our CAT tour, we walked a block to the Farmer's Market held in the large Riverfront Park right on the river.  Lots of craft items plus fresh produce, bakery goods, honey etc.  Live music was good and the whole scene had a good vibe.Train tracks run parallel to the market and we were blocked in by a mile long coal train for a few moments. No problem--we like trains!

The next day July 27, we drove east to Moline, IL on the Mississippi River  to visit the John Deere Co., founded in 1837, one of the oldest industrial companies in the United States.  It began when John Deere, a blacksmith, produced a radical new self-cleaning plow that changed agriculture! 

We came to see the John Deere Pavillion and were not disappointed!  The John Deere Pavillion is an incredible showcase of the history and products of the John Deere Co.  Here's what their John Deere Attractions brochure says--

”If you measure fun and excitement by the pound, you'll find tons of both at the John Deere Pavillion.  Our all-new visitor experience features literally tons of big, powerful machines.  Some are staged in their typical work environments, so you can climb aboard to see and feel what it's like to run these machines.

You'll hear real customers as they share their workdays with you.  And you'll want to test your skills in real life job situations by grabbing the controls of our simulators.

There's also lots of history to explore, innovations to discover, prototype machines to inspect, and global challenges to learn about.  Parents, please note that your youngsters may have so much fun in our Discovery Zone that they won't want to leave.

It's fun, exciting and educational.  And admission is always free!” *

A mural of the first factory, the original Deere plow and the old and new logo

We discovered many new things about this legendary manufacturer and really enjoyed seeing so many of Deere's machines up close.  John Deere is the world's biggest producer of farm equipment like farm tractors and combines and also a large maker of construction machinery as well as commercial and home lawn and garden equipment.  John Deere has 67,044 employees globally.  U.S. sales are predominant at Deere with only 36% of sales outside the U.S.  We were impressed with the John Deere core values set forth by John Deere, the founder: Integrity, Quality, Commitment and Innovation.  They see two major challenges facing the world in coming decades: “Feeding a population growing in size and affluence” and “Developing the infrastructure required to support massive urbanization.”

Deere operates with 3 divisions: Agricultural and Turf producing 77% of revenue and 16.1% of operating profit; Construction and Forest Products produc ing 16% of revenue and 6.4% of profit; and Financial Services producing 7% of revenue but 31.1% of profit!

Agricultural products include tractors, loaders, combines, cotton and sugar cane harvesters, tillage, seeding and soil prep machinery and hay and forage equipment for the global farming industry.  Turf is commercial and home small lawn tractors, lawn mowers, golf course equipment, utility vehicles, and landscape and nursery products.  Construction & Forestry includes construction, earthmoving, material handling, timber harvesting, backhoe loaders, crawler dozers, 4WD loaders, excavators, motor graders, articulated dump trucks, landscape loaders, skid steer loaders, log skidders, feller bunchers, harvesters and attachments. Financial Services finances sales and leases by JD dealers of new and used equipment to all industries, wholesale financing to dealers and retail revolving charge accounts.  We were interested to learn that customers can buy crop insurance from John Deere as well!

John Deere is obviously proud of their World War II production record and feature it in their introductory history panels.  Deere produced MG 1 & 2 heavy tractors for moving aircraft, M3 tank transmissions, the Deere Wagon Works produced large mobile laundry units and the Harvester Works produced airplane parts and more.  Many women were hired to replace men called up into the military and these women played an important role in production.

John Deere was an early progressive company in many ways.  In 1880s they started an 8 hour workday from 10 hour days formerly; 1881 added electric lights to the factories; 1887 paid employee health and accident benefits; 1907 established pensions; and in 1909, the company built employee housing when there was a housing shortage.

Yes, John Deere competes with Caterpillar and others in the construction and forestry markets and as we traveled the Interstates after Illinois, we checked the many road construction projects underway and saw a higher percentage of CAT equipment but lots of John Deere in use as well.

Deere & Co. operates a number of attractions all in or near Moline and most have free admission. 

John Deere's World Headquarters in Moline at One John Deere Place is open 7 days a week.  “See John Deere products new and old, as well as a display of 2200 items related to the company's history, inside this architectural masterpiece.” *   John Deere's headquarters were designed by famed Finnish architect, Eero Saarinen.  We ran out of time and didn't visit here. “Next Trip!”

John Deere Historic Site is in Grand Detour, now Dixon, IL and “gives you a first-hand look at the blacksmithing trade in this replica of John Deere's shop” next to the foundations of his original shop.  You also tour the inside of the house he built for his family with period furnishings.* (Fee includes both shop and home) 

You can also visit the John Deere Harvester Works in East Moline on weekdays when it is operating. This factory has produced John Deere combines for 100 years, “helping farmers meet the challenges of feeding an expanding global population with innovative and efficient machines.”  *  This is free, but a reservation is needed.  It was not open on Sunday when we were in Moline. 

Finally the Deere-Winan House, built in 1872, and the Butterworth Center, built in 1892, are “the magnificent mansions and gardens that the Deere family once called home.” *  Open Sundays by appointment with donations appreciated.

To wrap up, somehow we felt more comfortable at the John Deere Pavilion than at Caterpillar's Visitor Center, since the CAT site seemed to be a very elaborate sales tool to take their customers through while the John Deere Pavillion felt like it was  primarily set up for the general public including the all-important farm families. 

For one thing, John Deere was much less technical with many hands-on displays that got the visitor involved and, of course, for a family on a budget, the John Deere Pavillion is free while CAT costs!  We enjoyed both though and would recommend both sites.  Full disclosure—we recently repowered our boat with a John Deere marine diesel engine and love its economy and reliability, so maybe we're a little biased! 

A Toy store for big and small boys!

Incidentally, the John Deere Store is adjacent to the Pavillion and is loaded with lots and lots of green John Deere merchandise from ball caps, clothing of all types, great toys including tractors, books, videos and much more.  Our grandkids will be disappointed to hear that we didn't get them anything—sorry, no room in the RV!        

* from John Deere Attractions “Where the Legend Lives On” brochure.

Taken from the video-- a good example of Deere's agricultural might!

On the Historic National Road—Richmond, Indiana—the Mural City!

When we were registering at the Deer Ridge Camping Resort in Richmond, Indiana on July 23, 2014, we picked up several tourist brochures on Richmond, about which we knew nothing.  First, Richmond is located on the old National Road, which linked the East with the Western frontier in the 1830s.  In reading the brochures, we were hooked on spending time when we found out that there are at least 20 murals Downtown and in the Historic Depot District, many related to a pioneer jazz recording studio, Gennett Recording Studio, where many of the jazz greats, including Hoagy Carmichael, Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington and Jelly Roll Morton, recorded their first tunes! 

                  " The Rescue"   The original Firehouse--now a BBQ restaurant                                    
Watch the cat falling out of the window!

 

Richmond was settled in 1805 by Quakers from North Carolina.  When the National Road arrived in 1827, it became Richmond's Main Street and retailers moved their businesses there to greet settlers heading west.  In those days, over 200 wagons a day passed through Richmond!  The town continued growing and soon became a railroad center and the county seat of Wayne County.

Several years back, we visited the National Road Museum in Zanesville, Ohio.  It's a fascinating story!   A road connecting the existing states was conceived by President George Washington, authorized by President Thomas Jefferson and traveled by President Abraham Lincoln!  Construction was approved by Congress in 1806 to open the western interior to commerce and settlement.  The National Road was America's first federally funded “interstate” highway!  It ran from Cumberland, Maryland to Wheeling, West Virginia on the Ohio River. 

 

An extension to Ohio, Indiana and Illinois was authorized in 1824 to link the capitals of these new states.  The road reached Indiana and Richmond in 1827!  824 miles through seven states!  Carriages, stagecoaches, and wagons competed for space with travelers on foot, cattle, hogs and geese!  By 1850, canal and rail transport expansion decreased National Road traffic and it fell into disrepair.

The Automobile revived the National Road in the 1920s!  The Federal Government began building a network of paved all weather highways.  The National Road became U.S. Route 40 from Atlantic City, New Jersey to San Francisco, California!  Gas stations, diners and motels opened to service travelers.  In the 1970s, I-70, a new Interstate Highway as envisioned by President Eisenhower, replaced the National Road as the primary route West.

The National Road is still very much alive as U.S. Route 40 and in 2002, the entire historic National Road from Maryland to Illinois was named an All-American Road as the longest National Scenic Byway in the greatest number of states!   Indiana, like most of the other National Road states, is actively promoting the route for tourism!  The Old National Road Welcome Center at 5701 National Road East in Richmond has an excellent exhibit on the National Road and many other Richmond attractions with a very friendly staff to help you! 

Richmond's Downtown and Railroad Depot Districts is a treasure chest of wonderful history-themed Murals.  Some of our favorites are shown in our photographs:  “The Cradle of Recorded Jazz”; “The Rescue”; “The Depot”; Hoagy Carmichael and Louis Armstrong” and “Cross-Rhythm Coda”

Besides murals, the Downtown area has some very fine architecture and the Welcome Center has a Downtown architectural walking tour and a historic building walking tour plus a National Register of Historic Districts guide.   

The Richmond High School

Some of the "painted ladies" need some work!

 
The Wayne County Courthouse completed in 1893 is a fine example of Richardsonian Romanesque architecture. 

We really enjoyed seeing the Lingle Real Estate Building at 801 North A St. which is an English Cottage design of a mid-1930s Pure Oil Service Station.  The company built a number of stations to this design, thinking it connoted “friendliness.”  Haven't seen one of these in many years and probably very few left in the country!

The other must-see Richmond destination in the Depot District is the Richmond Furniture Gallery in the former Miller Bros. Hardware Store built in 1886.  This was the 3^rd largest hardware store in the United States in 1910 with 3 floors and 120,000 square feet!  The building sat abandoned for 30 years until the present owners bought it in 2004 and completely renovated the premises as part museum and part furniture store.  Now why would anyone from the West Coast want to visit a Midwest furniture store, anyway?  It's the museum part that's sensational with huge amazing mural art of historic events in Richmond.  One of the biggest murals is a 22'x 80' mural of the Starr-Gennett Recording Studio that made Richmond the “Birthplace of Recorded Jazz!” 

An opera horse in a furniture store? And shelves full of food packages from the '30s!  A huge B&W photograph of how the store looked 100 years ago

There is a tiny 1950 Crosley automobile on the 2^nd floor that was manufactured right here in Richmond!  There is a great model train display on the 3^rd floor that the local Model Railroad Society runs on a regular basis and daily during the Christmas season.  They have a 14' tall Bunny Rabbit with different costumes for each season! 

Fire engines and airplanes in the kid's furniture department

The World's Largest Dining Room Chair is at the front door and in the company office there's a 12' tall medieval knight's suit of armor!!  Also in the office is a Castle made from U.S. Pennies---256,729 of them made by the owner's children over the years!  The store has an amazing collection and it's all free!  They even give you a bottle of water and cookies!  Check out our photographs.

The Underground Railroad that transported and sheltered fugitive slaves and brought them to the North and freedom was active in this area.  The Levi Coffin House built in 1839 in Centerville is called “The Grand Central Station” of the legendary Underground Railroad.  Over 2000 slaves sought shelter here and escaped to freedom in the pre-Civil War days.

The Model T Ford Club of America is headquartered in Richmond and their Model T Museum is in the Historic Depot District close to the epicenter of all the murals!  The Wayne County Historical Museum, which we did not have time to visit, is described as “ this gem of a museum is like a miniature Smithsonian, New York Metropolitan and Williamsburg -- all rolled into one!”  Wow, I think there are at least 4 more museums!   Richmond's 1902 Pennsylvania Railroad Depot is a grand building and is being rejuvenated by new owners and exciting new tenants. 

And finally, Whitewater Gorge Park in Richmond is the location of the Starr-Gennett Historic Site and Walk of Fame.  It commemorates the musicians of the early jazz, blues, and gospel music of the early 20^th Century who recorded at Gennett Studios, whose former site is the location of the Walk of Fame.  Walk of Fame inductees are shown on a giant bronze 78 RPM record and include Louis Armstong, Bix Beiderbecke, Hoagy Carmichael, Gene Autry, Lawrence Welk and many others.

Mural of Hoagie Carmichael

Richmond, Indiana  is a friendly, historic place to visit.  If you like murals, you've got to come here!

This mural from a distance really looks like a restaurant full of people!

Fire Engine at the Furniture Gallery